Badgering surfers

Biarritz is definitely a resort town – even though you’re in Basque country, you feel like its California. It’s a tough time to come here since its so mobbed, this morning was not productive, as 4 hotels told me they’re booked solid and can’t show me a room. I came back in the afternoon, and most of them were much nicer, but losing half a day is not helpful. The beaches are wall to wall people, and the surfers are on top of each other where the waves are breaking.

This is the first place where I’ve met Americans – stalked Americans is more like it. Anytime I hear English I start pestering people to see where they’re staying and what they’ve done. It’s helpful to get their perspective – it’s a guide for tourists after all. The two youth hostels here have been the most helpful – even though it’s taken me an hour each way on the bus system, there are people there who speak almost every language. The one in Anglet is like an international surf camp. I met a nice guy from Norway – who didn’t believe me that I don’t have a phone number. Sometimes communicating across 3 languages just doesn’t quite work (like how I accidentally went on date with the guy who runs the skateboard shop in Lourdes, but that’s another story).

I’ve been subsisting on ice cream and seafood here, after the jambon and chocolate blitz of Bayonne. And baguettes – it’s hard to avoid the white bread. I think I’m also getting over the eating alone thing. At first it was a little awkward, when people ask “toute seule?” like I’m a freak for having no friends. Eating is serious business in France. People eat dinner after 8 or 9, and take hours to do so. It’s the mega-meal and a serious social occasion. But it’s easier now, I go through my notes and checklists, and eventually the guy at the bar feels bad for me and sends over a glass of champagne.

There is one part of the guide that’s going to be lacking – the surfing section. Nothing is harder to do than to get surfers to give up surf spots. And for good reason – the locals want to keep the best spots for themselves. I spoke with probably 15 people trying to find out some good breaks, and not one word. “Il faut pas le dire!” Looks like people are going to have to stick the main beaches.

My last night here is at this charming hotel, with a really nice family that runs it. They told me I’m too friendly to be a critic. I think I’ve been told everything thus far – I’m too young for this job, I’m too thin for this job. People that know I’m American before they speak with me always tell me I speak French very well – I guess the rep of Americans isn’t great. At this point I’d say I understand French, but I wouldn’t say I’m fluent. I keep butchering the gender of verbs – I get through an entire sentence and realize all the adjectives should have been feminine.

I had a victory dinner tonight – since this completes my time here in the Sud-Ouest. A glass of white wine, grilled prawns and grilled sardines, overlooking the ocean. Overall, the people have been the best part of this experience. Basque people are truly warm, a little prickly at first, but with a lust for life.

On to Paris now, and looking forward to some comany!