At the Manor

Finally, a welcome break. A place just outside of Quimper was nice enough to put us up for a night. And what a place it is. Getting there was one story, as I don't think anyone stays there without a rental car. We took the local bus system (no tourists in sight) for 15 kilometers, and then walked down a country road, rolling my massive paper-filled suitcase. After passing cow and corn fields, we actually found the right road. The property is called Manoir du Stang, it's a 16th century manor.

At first I felt badly, rolling up looking wilted and scrubby, but after the traditional cold french reception, the owner was incredibly nice. The house has been in his family for 8 generations, and unlike like a chateau (as he reminded me a few times), it was there for the agricultural estates, not for leisure. The property is beautiful and relaxing, and considering where you're staying, the prices are darn cheap. After seeing upwards of 60 hotels, I can safely say that the best deals are outside of town - the most interesting, most charming spots. I'm tempted to come back someday and do a trip with a car, driving from b&b to b&b. It's by far the best deal.

Finally on to the last town! It's a bit of a relief, and sad at the same time. This pace of this entire trip has been accelerated, super-condensed. It's disappointing sometimes to move on so quickly from a town, but while I'm there, I'm forced to talk to so many people, it's like I spent weeks there. That's been the best thing - while some people greet you with suspicion, saying that you're a journalist gives you a bit of a carte blanche. People accept that you need information, and are willing to open up more. In general, I tend to go for laidback vacations - the sit-back and take-it-all-in kind. It's been good for me to be forced to get in people's faces, to keep busting in doors when everyone is staring at me, to ask for people's time when I wouldn't normally.

On to the beach!